Imagine a land of charming small towns perched on hilltops, winding alleyways and whitewashed houses; a realm of opportunity for the foodie in you, where rustic valleys of millennial olive trees meet ancient vineyards and golden crops; and where you can relax by dipping your toes in hundreds of miles of Mediterranean coastline. Welcome to Italy’s sun-bleached heel, a region sprinkled with hidden gems with the likes of Alberobello and its iconic trulli district and Matera’s sassi (the world’s second oldest continuously inhabited settlement in human history).
We arrive at Le Tre Sorelle B&B after a one-hour flight to Bari and a short taxi ride, where we are delivered to a palazzo with an enormous, ancient wooden door that wouldn’t look out of place in a Game of Thrones set. We walk through the archway and up the stairs, following the ‘Welcome’ sign hanging from the wrought iron railing. Clara, a descendant of the Capitaneo family, the very same family who build the palazzo almost two centuries ago, greets us. She smiles serenely and welcomes us to her home. It only takes me a few minutes of looking around the grounds to understand: of course she’s blissed out; she gets to live here! As she shows us to our suite, we pass by the garden gate and we make a mental note to visit it later.
This place lives and breathes history. Back in the 10th century, there was already a fortified farmhouse on the grounds and this architectural element, later on, gave its name to the whole district – Palese. The B&B still preserves traces of a church and underground oil-mills, but it harmoniously integrated the previous structures, resulting in a place of charm, character, and tranquility.
Le Tre Sorelle is perfectly situated just 10 minutes away from the Bari international airport, which makes it the ideal accommodation for those early morning flights or late night arrivals. But it’s also the ultimate gateway to the city center of Bari and the region. A 5-minute walk and you are at the Bari Palese-Macchie train station that connects with Bari Central Station in only a few minutes. From there on forward, the sky is the limit! However, if you rent a car, the generous inner courtyard doubles as free parking space for the guests as well.
Our suite is a minimalist sanctuary with white walls and high vaulted ceilings. There’s just the right amount of furniture, with splashes of color here and there, but nothing overwhelming. It really helps us slow down, get rid of the inner mental noise and settle in.
The bathroom features C.O. Bigelow products and I fall head over heels for the little bottles of shampoo with lavender and peppermint formula. This place really gets me and my hair is grateful too.
The common spaces are located on the upper floor but they are a whole new ball game. They are not meant for emptying your mind but for acquiring new knowledge. The red velvet couches look incredibly inviting and there are magazines, books and even a piano covered with family portraits. Numerous collector items from around the world and a fireplace still decorated in the Christmas spirit catch our attention right away. It’s a really relaxed atmosphere, although this time around it seems rather intended for our body’s relaxation rather than our intellects.
We wake up in the morning to the smell of croissants and freshly baked cakes. Although not a huge spread, it’s a gentle reminder that simple and homemade tastes a thousand times better. There’s the same attention to detail, the same friendly smiles, and our smallest wishes are met with utmost anticipation. It’s like they can read our minds - an unprecedented experience. The table is set with the cutest of crockery, the lemon water is delicious, the jams and honey mouth-watering. The cappuccino here is simply the best, and I somehow manage to overcome my shyness and ask for a second cup every single morning.
During the summer months, guests can enjoy their breakfast on the outdoor terrace, but it’s too cold for that now, in spite of the sun shining through the floor to ceiling glass doors overlooking the garden.
Although there are no flowers in bloom, the garden is nevertheless fragrant and peaceful. The sea breeze gently caresses our faces and we blissfully indulge in the Zen atmosphere. We can easily see ourselves lounging in this ample garden in summer. With only 6 rooms, this place is not likely to ever feel crowded.
For more information on Le Tre Sorelle B&B or to book a room, please visit their website.