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3 Reasons to Visit the Largest Cathedral in the World. Seville, Day 2

2012-05-22T23:48:00.001+02:00

The nights of May in Seville are wonderfully warm and pleasant and we slept like angels. And that was fortunate, as on the second day of our trip to Seville, my husband and I had lots of sightseeing to do. Seville Cards in hand, we started with the much celebrated Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea, located only minutes away from our hotel. Needless to say, we were more than happy that our 24h Seville cards helped us skip the endless line altogether.

By the time we arrived, there was already a sea of people inside the cathedral and to be honest, the atmosphere was far from the original purpose of the place. The cathedral is huge, and pretty dark and with all the tourists swarming around, it is noisy! No guards hushing the crowds like in the Sistine Chapel, no guards at all actually, and no matter how much I disliked them then, I missed them now.

This was our second time visiting Seville's Cathedral and despite the crowds, we still think it is worthy to be visited for mainly 3 reasons.

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea is the largest cathedral in the world

It is difficult to grasp it all in one glance, either from outside or from the inside. The choir placed in the right in the middle makes it impossible to appreciate how huge this place really is. I only now it took us 2 hours to visit it all (Giralda Tower included. And though we might not be the fittest persons in the world, I can assure you that's not where the big chunk of time was spent).

Climbing the Giralda Tower all the way up is well worth it

The bell tower is one of the few elements left from the old mosque for which was built as a minaret and back in the good old days they used to climb it on a horse back. It has 105 meters and no stairs. What a relief! Probably this is the main reason this is the only tower that I climbed twice in my life. There is a special feeling about it and knowing that at every turn there will be another window with another stunning view and a different perspective on the city below us was pretty motivational and kept us going all the way up.

However, it was intriguing to realize how my memory played tricks on my and instead of the wide, golden and very well lit tower I remembered from a few years ago, this time Giralda was pretty narrow and dark. Maybe some places are meant to be seen only once, or maybe the sun was in a different position on the sky, I don't know. I just hope that for the older lady with crutches who was just starting her climb as we were coming down, the sun was in the right position and rewarded her boldness.

The tomb of Christopher Columbus is here

And it looks incredible! And it has a long and not so predictable story behind it, unless you've been following it in the media lately. Basically, long story short, Columbus seemed to have traveled more after his death than he did during his lifetime. He died in Spain, but his earthly remains were transferred to the Dominican Republic a few decades later, then to Cuba and when this second colony became independent too, Columbus' remains were transferred to the Cathedral of Seville where they still are today, or so the Spanish authorities and the DNA studies claim, while the Dominicans beg to differ.

The catafalque where Columbus is placed in Seville is very beautiful and elaborate with four men carrying the coffin, representing the kings of the four Spanish Kingdoms back in the day and their robes are sculpted with the symbols of each kingdom. One of them is having his spear stabbed in a 'granada', the Spanish name for pomegranate, symbol of the city of Granada, the last Moorish fortress still sanding on the peninsula.

One more beautiful element this cathedral has is the orange tree garden, quite an unusual idea I would dare to say. While in Valencia the orange trees were still in bloom a few days before we left for Seville, there were no blossoms in the Andalusian city at this time of the year anymore. It seems like the climate difference between the two cities is quite big after all, though it might not seem so when you look it on the map. We actually left Valencia with 27ºC, just to arrive in Seville with temperatures over 40ºC.

We bumped into the cathedral quite a few more times during the next few days and we were left with the feeling that in Seville, all streets lead to it. It is the meeting point of tourists and locals alike however, and it is impossible to avoid. And why would anyone want to do so after all? It is a beautiful piece of Gothic architecture and the horse pulled carriages around it are a pretty charming and romantic sight too.

Next we headed to one of my favorite places in Seville... But then, I have sooo many favorite places in Seville ;)

We received two complimentary Sevilla Cards. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary items and services will never influence the content of this blog. All opinions expressed here are our own.

Hotel Alcoba del Rey, Seville. A Charming & Relaxing Riad in Andalusia

2012-05-17T16:55:00.000+02:00

The moment we entered the Hotel Alcoba del Rey in Seville we knew we were in for something different. A rich incense scent encompassed us and the light reflections on the inner courtyard's walls were creating such a dreamy atmosphere...

Alcoba del Rey, literally meaning 'The King's Bedchamber', is a boutique hotel built following the design of a Moroccan riad. More than that, many of the objects decorating the common areas and the rooms were brought from Morocco.

The owner had an amazing idea when he built this place. Everything you see around you, all furniture and decorative objects, you can take home with you. Everything in the hotel is for sale! And believe me, it was so difficult to resist buying one of the beautiful lamps sported all over the place! Together with the lit candles, they were creating an incredibly relaxing atmosphere.

Here the room don't have numbers, but names, each reminiscent of someone far gone, maybe a slave girl, maybe a poet, all people that left their imprint on this place. And the key chains are made of colorful tassels, each room with a different color.

As we were shown to our second floor room, we noticed this amazing marble columns and arches with Moorish decorations.

And looking down we could see the patio transformed into a comfy lobby.

The Room

The room was a total surprise. As no two rooms are the same at Alcoba del Rey, we didn't know what ours was going to look like, and we definitely didn't expect to spend the night with such a beautiful ceiling above our heads. This way the guests can come over and over again and every time have a different experience.

The Bathroom

The bathroom was probably the quirkiest we've seen in our lives. Following the designs of a riad , there was no door between the bathroom and the bedroom. The toilet however, was separated by a door. Did this make us feel uncomfortable? Not at all.

The Lobby

There were freshly cut flowers everywhere. And this beautiful blue tiled fountain was adding an extra touch of serendipity, as we could hear the water running.

I must admit I was in love with all the details... to beautiful, so out of this world...

But the overall effect was nevertheless charming too. Also remarkable is that the pavement is made out of beautiful old Moroccan tiles that were brought to Spain piece by piece to replace the previously marble floor.

Location

Hotel Alcoba del Rey is situated just next to Basílica de la Macarena and the Andalusian Parliament, and a 20 minutes bus ride from Seville's center.

The terrace

After sunset we went up on the terrace to enjoy some peace and quiet. Following the heat we endured during the day, this was bliss. There was also a jacuzzi tub here and during the summer months the kiosk on the terrace opens and guests can enjoy a drink or two and cool down.

The restaurant

And if you feel like eating tapas, all you have to do is go down to the hotel's restaurant and enjoy some Andalusian atmosphere.

Why was this hotel special for us? Because we've been longing for a long time to spend the night in a riad. We never imagined that the first time we'll do so won't be in Morocco. Life is full of surprises, isn't it? And believe me when I tell you, Hotel Alcoba del Rey in Seville is too.

Have you ever stayed in a riad? What did you like best about it?

We received a complimentary stay from Hotel Alcoba del Rey in Seville. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary services did not influence us in writing this review. All opinions expressed in this hotel review are our own.

Experiencing the Magical World of Flamenco. Seville, Day 1

2012-05-13T14:23:00.002+02:00

We arrived in Seville with the first winds from Sahara. And boy it was hot, way beyond our expectations. Therefore we were incredibly happy when we finally managed to find our way to Hotel Corral del Rey even if we only had time to quickly freshen up before heading for the Flamenco Dance Museum where we were about to experience our first flamenco show in Andalusia.

Luckily for us, the museum was right in the heart of the city and just around the corner from our hotel. It took us less than five minutes to find it and the moment we stepped in we felt the bliss of the air con.

First we toured the museum and afterwards we attended the live show organized in the patio. The Flamenco Dance Museum in Seville is not a big one, but it has all the elements it needs, from costumes to flamenco shoes, castanets, wonderful paintings and vintage posters.

This is very modern museum, making great use of the new media. There were countless video and audio resources that explained all we ever wanted to know about the over two centuries old history of the flamenco dance, and some of the most famous flamenco dancers ever. We also watched some full wall projection performances, but we were still eager to see the live performance.

After traveling through Spain and having already attended one flamenco show in Madrid, we knew a thing or two about flamenco, a dance we always found extremely interesting. Nevertheless, the Flamenco Dance Museum widened our knowledge even further and opened our appetite for the show.

Guests are given the possibility to chose between visiting the museum or attending the 7 o'clock show or both. We strongly recommend not to miss the show. Also, it is better to buy the tickets in advance, and arrive in the patio half an hour early to get the best seats.

There was a bar in the patio and while we waited for the show to start, we ordered two glassed of red wine.

Before the flamenco show started we were welcomed in five languages or so.

The show was awesome. And the flamenco songs went straight to our heart.

Flamenco is all about passion and energy. It is about living the life to its fullest. About feeling everything to the extremes. About hurting and about loving and about being in love with the living. Or that's what we gathered from it.

There wasn't a still moment during the whole performance. The bailaores (dancers) and the cantaores (singers) were giving everything. And the public got engaged, as it is the norm for the people watching the dancers to encourage them from the side.

The flamenco songs are passionate indeed, but it is the dance that we find incredibly intriguing and beautiful. We look at it as a way of exploring ones body, a form of ethereal creation, if only an ephemeral one.

We strongly recommend going to a flamenco show while in Seville. There is no better way of experiencing the local spirit and culture. Flamenco was born here, in Andalusia. It has Caribbean, oriental and French influences and UNESCO declared it a Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. But before attending a flamenco show, you should definitely visit the Flamenco Dance Museum. It will definitely put things in perspective for us.

Have you ever been to a flamenco show? How did it make you feel?

A big thank you to the Flamenco Dance Museum and its staff for the complimentary tickets and their efforts. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary items and services will never influence the content of this blog. All opinions expressed here are our own.

Photo Of The Day: Horse and Carriage Rides In Seville

2012-05-10T00:11:00.001+02:00

What gondolas are to Venice, the horses and carriages are to Seville. Today we spotted them lined up around the Cathedral and in Plaza de España and I have to admit they really add to the charm of the city... I wonder if they are the same ones that parade during the April Fair... However, I feel sorry for the poor creatures, having to endure the Sevillian heat all day long with a piece of metal in their mouth. Well, al least they can enjoy some gorgeous views whenever a client comes along, though I'm not sure they care about the beauty of Seville...

Have you ever took a horse and carriage ride? Do you find it romantic?

A Birthday Trip to Xativa Castle

2012-05-06T02:28:00.000+02:00

On Friday, my husband and I went on a day trip to Xativa, a town less than one hour train ride North from Valencia. We visited the old castle and enjoyed some quality time together in the middle of nature as it was Cipri's birthday. This was my little pre-gift for him. The main one is a trip to Seville next week.

We spotted the castle from afar quite a few times in the past, but we never found our way here before. Xativa is the birthplace of two popes, Callixtus III and Alexander VI (the famous Papa Borgia) and it is the first European paper manufacture center, dating back to the 12th century when the technology was brought to Xativa by the Arabs.

From street level, the town might not be much to see, but we loved the views from the hilltop. Greenish mountains surround the whole area and the fluffy clouds were a great surprise. We don't get to see clouds very often in Valencia, you know?

Once we left the last house behind, it was so blissfully quiet. We barely met a couple of people on the way up. All we could hear were the sounds of nature. And than, all of a sudden, our relaxed brains were bothered by a strange noise. God it was loud! And then we saw it. A steel bug way in the distance... a train. I guess we needed to quiet our brains first in order to hear it.

Sharing the same mountain with the castle are a couple of churches and some caves.

During the Roman times the Castle of Xativa was strategically located on Via Augusta. Later the Moorish came, then the Christians... The castle defied the passing of time and conquerors for many, many centuries, up till one day, at the beginning of the 18th century when it was finally destroyed. Sad, isn't it?

Loved, loved, loved this little fountain from the Upper Castle with views of the Lower Castle...

The night before the trip, we saw some pictures of Xativa Castle and we both agreed it looked like the Great Wall. Only that wasn't how we perceived it once we arrived there anymore.

One of the best ideas our contemporaries had was to open a restaurant inside the castle. I don't know how popular Xativa Castle is with the tourists, but it seemed like there were more people having lunch here than exploring the ruins.

I couldn't help but notice some of the vegetation and a big sign about the endemic plants that grow here and some science projects.

I always loved green walls and these plants beyond intrigued me. Is this nature's way of telling us to be more eco-friendly? Not only were these flowers lovely, but they were growing on the ruins and seemed to enjoy it too. Actually, they only grew on ruins.

We took our time and explored every inch of the ruined castle. It made us dream, wonder, think, imagine... And at the end of the day, we reached a conclusion. We like castles, no matter how glamorous or in bad shape they might be. And it is always a privilege to walk in the footsteps of so many generations past.

What's the last castle you visited?

Las Arenas Hotel, Valencia. Delicate Decors and Stunning Sea Views

2012-05-01T12:02:00.000+02:00

Over the weekend we were guests at Las Arenas Spa Resort in Valencia. Needless to say, the stunning surroundings and the sea views of the hotel, made this one of the most memorable weekends ever.

Las Arenas is the first and only 5 star Deluxe hotel in the Valencia region and member of the Leading Hotels of the World. It opened back in 2006, and now, 6 years later, everything still looks brand new. We loved how utmost attention was given to even the smallest detail, how everything was spotless, and everybody so careful and attentive. What else can I say? We were sooo spoiled! Spending the weekend at Las Arenas Hotel was very special, even if we've been living in Valencia for a couple of years now. It proved us that this city will always manage to surprise us in one way or another.

The very minute we entered the lobby area we were smitten. The place is huge! And it has palm trees! And the decor is amazing, delicate and delightful, with big windows facing the beautiful garden.

There's also a lobby bar, and the fresh cut flowers are placed in vases reminiscent of the two colonnades in the garden. We came back here later in the evening to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere.

Then it was our Deluxe room's turn to completely blow our mind. The same soft decor as in the lobby, plenty of natural light, a fruit plate courtesy of the staff, CD player, big TV (and though we loved the personalized welcome message on the screen when we entered the room, we have to proudly admit that we barely touched the remote control).

But my favorite was the bathroom. Gosh, if only I had a bathroom like this at home! And someone to keep it as spotless and sparkly as this one was! It was the first time we had a bathroom with two sinks and we greatly enjoyed that. There was also a hydromassage cabin, and more towels than we knew what to use them for.

Hotel bathrooms are very important and I know people who say that if the bathroom is nice, everything else must be too. In my opinion, this was the best bathroom ever! I just wish all hotels would pay this much attention to their bathrooms.

And this was our spacious balcony, with comfy sun lounges and amazing views of the Mediterranean, Las Arenas beach and the hotel's breathtaking garden.

And this is how night looked like from our room. Isn't it gorgeous?

In the morning, we woke up smiling in anticipation for the culinary delights awaiting us in one of the several restaurants Las Arenas Hotel has. We were not disappointed. On the contrary. We had the tastiest and most varied breakfast ever. If we were to have breakfast here every morning for one week, it would still be impossible for us to sample all the delightful dishes, hot and cold, sweet and salty. I finished my breakfast with a big piece of carrot cake that I have no idea how on earth I manage to make room for it.

The two colonnades in the garden host conventions, weddings and banquets and have a capacity for 2000 people. I once read about a couple that traveled the world just to get married over and over again in different places and cultures and I thought that was the craziest and most romantic thing ever. I already proposed my husband to celebrate our 10 years anniversary at Las Arenas. I also suggested we celebrate our second wedding in a medieval castle hidden in the German forest. I keep trying. I'm doing my best here, I really do.

The terrace facing the garden is breathtaking. And comfortable. In the 1930s, in this very same place there was a spa resort that got destroyed in the Spanish Civil War. What's amazing is that some of the flora (aka the palm trees and the ficus trees) that happily grows in the hotel's gardens now is the same that decorated the old spa seven decades ago. Also the old marble baths that were still in one piece make now for intriguing flower beds.

We also got to have a look at one of the two Presidential Suites...

And we have to confess that the views from this suite are amazing...

Las Arenas Hotel also features an outdoor and an indoor swimming pool...

And a luxurious spa fit for a movie star...

See, this is what I was talking about! Any of these two areas would make it for the perfect wedding party!

We received a complimentary stay from Las Arenas Spa Hotel in Valencia. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary services did not influence us in writing this review. All opinions expressed in this hotel review are our own.

The Botanical Garden from Valencia. Kitties and Flowers

2012-04-27T10:05:00.002+02:00

The Botanical Garden from Valencia was founded in the 16th century, though it wasn't until 1802 when it moved to its current location. Back then, this area was outside the city walls, though not far from one of the two still standing city gates. Knowing this makes me realize just how small Valencia was 200 years ago and how fast it expended into the third largest city in Spain.

The garden features some pretty interesting pieces of architecture, mostly made out of brick and iron.

And some very cute and friendly cats. Though once the heat arrives to Valencia, the furry little pals become so sleepy that you would think somebody spread sleeping powder throughout the garden. This time my husband and I intended to see the spring flowers and stroll through the alleys admiring the cluster of Mediterranean plants, though in the end I have to admit, the kitties stole the show (again).

The Botanical Garden also has an outstanding palm tree collection, with over 120 species, though it's nowhere near El Palmeral from Elche, 150km to the South, the largest palm grove in Europe. Day tours can be easily organized to visit them both.

Nowadays, 4.500 different plant species are grown here and a colony of over 50 cats call these gardens their home.

The pond in the middle of the Botanical Garden is one of my favorite spots, because of the little golden fish (unfortunately they don't fulfill wishes) and beautiful pink and white water lilies that bloom later during the year. For the moment, just the calla lilies were showing off their beauty in the April sun.

The cactus garden is pretty interesting if you like plants with thorns. I prefer the other ones myself, though I couldn't help but gasp in amazement at some of the flowers these plants make.

You can tell it's spring, can't you?

Useful plants are also grown here...

Yes, this is a normal sight in Valencia's Botanical Garden. All you have to do is sit leisurely on a bench and chances are a cat will jump in your lap in no time.I guess this is not a place for those with cat allergies.

Alternatively, we spotted kitties everywhere...

And the tulips were awesome, though we were kind of late to the party.

Not for the other spring flowers we were not...

We both love these tags...

And the fountain...

But we could never make sense of this iron tree.

Birds like trees, cats like birds, but cats are too lazy to climb the trees, therefore the birds live happily ever after.

I rest my case!

Love is in the air... see if you can spot it!

This must be the most awesome owl ever...

.,..and the shiest cat ever.

Which are your favorite gardens for long spring walks?

Springtime in Valencia: The Royal Gardens

2012-04-23T20:51:00.000+02:00

Next to the Turia Gardens are the Royal Gardens, also known as the Nursery Gardens. These are some of the oldest gardens in Valencia, dating hundreds of years back. Unfortunately the Royal Palace that once stood here was destroyed during the Spanish War of Independence. Today, the Royal Gardens are the ideal place to relax in the sun and have fun.

The Royal Gardens are situated next to the Fine Arts Museum and host a small artificial lake with ducks, swans (including black swans) and peacocks.

There are also many statues in the gardens...

And cats... though they are not as friendly as the ones from the Botanical Gardens...

In the middle of it all there is a rose garden with all kind of roses with beautiful names...

And many trees are in bloom this time of the year...

Including cherry blossom trees, my favorites ever since I visited Dublin a few years ago.

How could the orange trees miss? Valencia is their land after all... And I just love how fully ripped oranges and blossoms are to be found on the same tree at the same time...

Though the orange trees you can spot all over the city are not edible; they are merely for decorative purposes.

Don't you find it charming how Spanish put nature and beautiful tiles together to create a special atmosphere...

Boo!

Spring In Spain's Largest Gardens. The Turia Gardens, Valencia

2012-04-17T23:36:00.000+02:00

These are the largest urban gardens in Spain. Stretching for over 8 km, from the City of Arts and Sciences, the world famous architectural wonder of Santiago de Calatrava, till the other end of the city, the new state-of-the-art Bioparc zoo, Turia Gardens cut Valencia in two halves.

About 50 years ago, these gardens used to be a river. But as the waters got mad on people and flooded the city, the people got mad on the river and outcast it. Now the Turia River surrounds the city to the south and the old riverbed is a prolific garden we thoroughly enjoy.

Back when this urban remodeling started, the first idea was to build a motorway in the old riverbed. But the people of Valencia protested and nowadays we have this gorgeous relaxing gardens instead of even more noise and pollution. The Valencian paid dearly for this, and for many years, every letter that was sent had an additional fee that went in the garden's account.

Aside from the beautiful promenades of flowers, parks, ponds and fountains, along the Turia Gardens are tons of sport facilities, including bike lanes, running tracks, football fields, rollerskating areas, a giant chess board, a skateboarding zone and a rugby field.

The park is also a dog's heaven. Though this never stopped stray cats from calling these gardens their own.

Valencia is an incredibly health conscious city and people of all ages practice yoga, Tai Chi, jog, and ride bikes through the park. Though, the two of us prefer lazier activities, like strolling through this green heaven for hours and go for romantic Sunday picnics.

As we went towards Bioparc, we met ducks. Lots of ducks...

And we recently discovered this beautiful artificial lake where they rent swan paddle boats...

And because it's spring, love is in the air...

And the love locks could not miss either.

The classical art museum is just next to the park and they recently opened a new room dedicated to Joaquin Sorolla. We checked it last week and we liked it. Although, it's kind of small.

Some trees take a stand and deny spring is already here...

But, without a doubt, they are wrong ...

And everything is green. Surprisingly green!

And kids enjoy the once again warm days tremendously.

Though not only the kids...

I never knew ducks could be so athletic...

But the most funny and weird site we could spot during spring in Valencia is the Rudolf train. He is so popular here that he's on duty year round.

Recipes From The Road: Romanian Stuffed Eggs

2012-04-14T21:51:00.000+02:00

Though we are going to travel to Romania again this summer, we could not wait any longer, and today I've decided to do the Romanian stuffed eggs recipe I learned on our last visit there. Since then, I prepared it for many of our friends, and they simply loved it every time.

We have to say this is one of the most delicious dishes we've tasted in Romania. It is usually served as a starter, along with other salads and goodies.

My mom must be very proud of me right now as she loves to decorate the plates and make them look really festive. Though, I must confess that when we sat down at the table, we felt sorry for the little ducks staring at us from the plate and we could not eat them. If you suspect you might have the same problem, try to use your creativity in a different direction.

I was in a playful mood today, and also I was testing my new camera.

Therefore, this is how the Romanian stuffed eggs traditionally look like, and this is how you will find them served in any Romanian restaurant or household.

Traditional Romanian cuisine is usually pretty elaborate and requires lots of time to prepare the dishes, but this recipe can be ready in more or less 30 minutes and it's not difficult at all.

So, here's the recipe:

Hard boil the eggs, shell and let cool.

Cut in half crosswise, remove the yolks and place them on a plate.

In a bowl, mix the yolks with finely chopped pickles and ham. Add parsley, dill and pepper to taste.

Add mayonnaise to this mixture. I always like to do my homemade mayonnaise. It is tastier, healthier and it takes only 3 minutes. I know, sometimes I can be so last century!...

Fill each egg half with a teaspoon of the above mixture. Pour some of the remaining mayonnaise mixed with sour cream on top of the eggs. Decorate the plate (optional). And voilà!

You can even turn the egg halves upside down and give them parsley wings and croquette heads and call them ducks on a lake.

Aren't they cute? Can you blame us for not having the heart to eat them? But like Scarlett O'Hara would say, 'Tomorrow is another day'.

7 Must See Places In the Magical City of Porto

2012-04-10T16:35:00.001+02:00

Porto is a magical city. Modern, yet still clinging to the old ways, it fascinated us beyond any expectations. We spent a day by the ocean, visited the uncounted for gilded churches, took a boat tour on the Douro River, and went for a wine tasting. But we also visited the following 7 places and we think no visit to Porto is complete without them. A city with charming and colorful, yet decaying architecture, with buildings ruled by the seagulls as the owners moved to quieter villages along the coast, Porto remains for us by far the most beautiful city in Portugal.

Café Majestic

Café Majestic is Porto's emblematic café. It opened back in 1921, during the Belle Epoche and it proudly keeps its charm to this day. Located in Santa Catarina Street, one of the busiest pedestrian streets in Porto, it is definitely a must stop for the 20s enthusiasts like myself and one of the rare occasions one is granted in this life to have a cup of coffee, or grab a bite in a gorgeous setting no longer in fashion. However, Café Majestic is not the only beautiful café in town, nor the cheapest, and if you just got outside the touristic center, you would find plenty of restaurants and cafeterias teeming with locals, and having ridiculously cheap prices.

Bolhao Market

Bolhão Market

Walking around Bolhão market you get the feeling that you have stepped back in time, or that time has stood still for many, many year. Yet, the time was less gentle with the merchants and the closed stalls give you the impression that this market is about to disappear. Maybe not tomorrow, maybe not the day after, but the only generation that keeps this place alive doesn't look like is going to be around much longer. Bolhão reminded me of the East European markets, except that while those are still thriving, this is a dying market. But you can still find fruits, and fish, freshly cut flowers and souvenirs, plastic house plants and decorative sea shells here. The variety it still tremendous, but the corporate supermarkets seem to have finished with it before time.

Lello Bookshop (see more pics here)

Lello Bookshop

Lello Bookhop is a total surprise. Behind a beautiful, but not so out of this world Neo-Gothic façade squizeed between two buildings, you will encounter one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. You just have to bother to open the door. I could have spent hours just looking around, having a cup of coffee upstairs next to the camellias, contemplating the stairs, one of the most intriguing ones I've ever seen... They sell books in quite a few languages, including English.

Sao Bento Train Station

São Bento Train Station

This is one of the most interesting train stations you will ever see. It's small and busy and it is located just in the middle of the city. It was inaugurated at the beginning of the last century and just as you enter it, there are these huge walls covered in azulejos, blue and white tiles depicting important moments from Portugal history. I also found the platforms pretty interesting. They are few, but immediately after the train leaves the station, it cuts through the mountain. On top of the mountain are some pretty houses covered in ivy. I just can't stop gasping in amazement every time I think about Porto's architecture, how the locals shaped the rock to suite their needs and how the mountain generously accommodates them.

The Stock Exchange Palace (Palacio da Bolsa)

The Stock Exchange Palace

One visits the Stock Exchange Palace to see the Arabic Room. But the other rooms are quite interesting too, though they have a completely different character. I walked around this palace constantly exclaiming an 'Oh!' or an 'Ah!'. Though on the outside the Stock Exchange looks austere, symbolizing the seriousness of the business conducted inside, the interiors are lavishly decorated, symbolizing the richness and prosperity of the merchants. It took three generations of Portuguese artists to complete this building and the end result is simply stunning. Finding more lavishly decorated rooms will be impossible in Porto.

Porto's Town Hall

The Town Hall Square

The huge square in front of the Town Hall and the Aliados Avenue has undergone a modernization project in the last years. It is a beautiful open space lined with trees and flanked by some of the most majestic building in the city. Lots of Porto's hotels are to be found around here. If you are on a budget but still want to stay in a good location, you can always look for hotels.com voucher codes to save some money.

Sunset from the Crystal Palace Park

Crystal Palace Park

The Crystal Palace Park offers some of the most beautiful panoramic views over the city, both up and down the Douro River. And the best Porto sunsets can be watched from here too. Many locals come here for jogging, like the eternal up and down the hills of the city wouldn't keep them fit enough. When we visited at the beginning of March the magnolias and camellias were in bloom and the park was incredibly beautiful. There are lots of peacocks and ducks running around freely (or resting) and the Crystal Palace, the pavilion in the middle of the park, is the landmark with a green dome that you can see from almost anywhere in Porto.

Porto is an incredibly beautiful city and it offers some amazing accommodation options too. However, if you want to make the most of your budget, using hotels.com discount codes will save you money for an extra museum, or delicious pastries, or why not a day trip to the nearby UNESCO Heritage Site of Douro Valley.

A Last Glimpse At This Year's Las Fallas Festival & What It Meant To Us

2012-04-05T13:55:00.002+02:00

This year's Las Fallas festival meant a whole world of new experiences to us. This was probably because we had Somi and Yeji as guests, our two Korean friends we met at a wine tasting in Porto. Since we moved to Valencia, we lived every Las Fallas differently, and every year brought something new, we learned something about the city we live in or about its people, and last but not least, about our own selves. This year we even opened a Couchsurfing account because of all the wondrous stories Yeji and Somi told us about their trip.

That's me in the middle, with Yeji and Somi...

Yeji and Somi were so much fun. And they even prepared South Korean dished for us. Unfortunately we couldn't find the original vegetables they use in Korea, so they had to improvise. However, the end result was sooo delicious.

I still can't believe I caught the flu exactly in this period, and every night after the sun went down and the air chilled I lost my voice to the point I could only whisper. Which is kind of counterproductive when there are firecrackers and noisy people all around you. I had to communicate through an improvised sign language only my husband could understand and he became by voice. That was so embarrassing...

We took Yeji and Somi with us all over, as we had a schedule of the events and the streets were cramped, so the fastest way to get from point A to point B were the backstreets. There are so many people in Valencia during Las Fallas that the pedestrian traffic almost comes to a halt. All car traffic in the city center vanishes as the police blocks the streets during the last days of festivities, but even so, with people taking over both sidewalks and roads, the city simply becomes way too crowded. From this point of view, thanks God Las Fallas are only once a year!

What better pastime for the kids than play with firecrackers in the middle of the road can there be? The smaller the child, the less dangerous are the firecrackers parents buy. Bigger kids can play with noisier ones. It is really intriguing to see toddlers that only recently learned to walk, throwing firecrackers. And that makes them so happy! The locals really have a taste for gunpowder from a young age. People coming from other parts of the world are really puzzled by this attitude.

Children are taught from a very young age how to throw firecrackers so they won't get hurt. But this is a fun reserved only for once a year, during the Fallas festival. Otherwise it is illegal to play with firecrackers, except for weddings, anniversaries and other major parties and festivals, but these are usually organized by the pyrotechnic companies.

During the last days of Las Fallas, Valencia literally smells of gunpowder. I don't know if this is wrong, but I kind of like this smell. Because for me it means PARTY and FUN. I know that for people that lived through a war this smell spells danger, but I guess I all comes down to our own personal experiences.

On the last day of the festival, after seeing and especially hearing the big mascleta in front of the Town Hall, the four of us went to see the winning falla. On the way, we stopped to see a smaller mascleta, in one of the neighborhoods. I have no idea what the guy in the picture above wanted to do with the cigarette. Lit up the mascleta before time?

Anyways, as the pyrotechnicians were getting everything ready and the crowds gathered were whistling and encouraging them to start making some noise, this family of falleros came and made the honors.

We were even closer to this mascleta than we were to the one in front of the Town Hall. Because is was a smaller one, we were just across the street from it and I had to cover my ears, that's how loud it was. My husband didn't have this luxury as he was taking the photos. I also covered my head with the scarf, as just minutes before, in front of the Town Hall, a woman standing next to us got hit in the head by one firecracker piece that fell from the sky after exploding and she instantaneously started bleeding.

One of the most unusual sights during this festival is spotting dozens of people cuing in front of the pyrotechnic shops. It's like firecrackers became all of a sudden vital to our existence.

Many people complain that they can't close an eye during Las Fallas, that's how noisy it is. I don't know if it's because when I was little I used to live next to some railway lines or because I've got used to it or because I have a deep sleep when I'm tired (and I usually am very tired during Las Fallas), but I was never bothered by the noisy people throwing firecrackers till 3AM. I actually go to bed after that, and till next morning at 8AM, the streets are pretty quiet, except for the occasional party goer. Probably one good piece of advice for the light sleepers is to book a hotel a bit outside the city center.

One thing I always liked about Las Fallas is that not only the young and the beautiful get to participate in the event. The lady above was probably a fallera her whole life, and you can tell she used to be a beauty not so long ago. Once a fallera always a fallera applies.

And there's never to early too be a fallera either. Nor to have fun while being one. Being a fallera is a journey, not a destination.

The young woman in green is the Fallera Mayor de Valencia, the Queen of this year's festival. She will represent the city in many official events during the months to come. Here she is handing in the prized for the best fallas.

And this other young lady is the Queen of the festivities from Castellon. Though the biggest party goes on in Valencia, Las Fallas are celebrated in other cities of the Valencian Community too, always with a bit of local twist.

The Statue of the Virgin made out of carnations takes two days to complete and watching the men at work is quite an interesting sight.

For two days in a row, the streets of Valencia are flooded by falleros and falleras taking flower offerings to the Virgin. Her dress is always tailored out of white, pink and red carnations, but the patterns change from one year to another. I get the feeling that lots of hopes, dreams, and wishes are entrusted to these flowers.

It's always a delightful sight to spot people dressed in traditional costumes carrying a piece of modern technology, like an ultra modern cell phone or a DSLR.

Somi and Yeji greatly enjoyed the buñuelos and churros.

While I would like to say that all street food is fresh and yummy during Las Fallas, the sad truth is that some stalls just don't get the recipe right, or they make them too oily. There's no way to tell, just by trial and error, but this year was almost the end of pumpkin buñuelos for me. After two failed attempts, luckily we gave them one last try and fortunately our two friends from Korea got to taste some very tasty buñuelos. Unfortunately, what the Internet says, that you have to look for the food stall where the locals are cuing, doesn't apply here, because there are so many people that all stalls have a cue.

On the 19th of March after sunset, there is an one hour fire parade. Pretty interesting, but the crowds on the side of the road are tremendous.

And just as they start burning the fallas, a huge crowd gathers to see the one in front of the City Hall burning. There's a big plaza there, and lots of people can fit in, crowded like sardines in a can, some say even 1 million people. We were late and didn't fit in anymore, as we previously saw another falla burning. But could hear the fireworks and firecrackers show just before the bonfire, and we even spotted a fraction of it.

First the sky went like this from the fireworks...

Then the sky went like this from the firecrackers...

And eventually everything went dark and the fire began.

And just because I couldn't leave this photo out, this must be the best. Las fallas. T-shirt. ever.

***THE END***

The Stunning Lello Bookshop From Porto

2012-04-03T13:22:00.000+02:00

OK, I know I said it before, but I'm going to say it again. I love Porto! From the moment I set foot in the amazing Porto airport till the moment I hoped back on the plane, I was completely smitten. And besides friendly locals, amazing architecture and the ocean, responsible for my love for this city is Lello Bookshop. I'm a bookworm and I can't help it!

Lello Bookshop is considered one of the most beautiful in the world and definitely one of the must see places in Porto. It opened back in 1906 and it has a Neo-gothic façade and a breathtaking Art Deco interior with stained glass ceiling, intricate carved wood and one of the most beautiful staircases I've ever seen in my life. It is very possible that J. K. Rowling got her inspiration for the grand staircase at Hogwarts School from Lello Bookshop while she was living in Porto, though she never said so herself.

Lello Bookshop & Cafe also has many, many books, in different languages, including English, although the visitors sometimes forget about them, smitten by the impressive decor. It is good to remember though that the primary function of this place is still that of a bookshop. Buying a book (or a painting) from here might be a precious souvenir, one that will enrich your bookshelf for many years to come.

A huge thank you to Lello Bookshop and the staff for letting us take pictures of this amazing place.

The Stock Exchange Palace of Porto & Its Magnificent Arabic Room

2012-03-31T15:13:00.000+02:00

Porto is situated pretty up north, and most people wouldn't expect to find Arabic art and influences here. And truth being told, you won't, except for one stunningly decorated room inside the Stock Exchange Palace (or Palácio da Bolsa in Portuguese).

The Arabic Room

Like many other people, we did our homework in advance, and well before arriving in Porto we knew about this extravagant room. But nothing, absolutely no photo nor description prepared us for the real experience. The level of details on the walls of this splendorous room, the vastness of it, and the brilliance of the Portuguese artists who for 18 years worked towards it's completion are impossible to put into words or pixels. This is one space that you have to see it to believe it.

The Court Room

The Stock Exchange Palace is part of the UNESCO Wold Heritage of Porto. It belongs to the Commercial Association and it was build by three generations of artist and craftsmen, from the 1842 till the beginnings of the 20th century, in Neoclassical style.

The General Assembly Room

Though the exterior of the building is pretty austere, symbolizing the reliability and genuineness of the business conducted inside, the interiors are lavishly decorated, symbolizing the richness and prosperity of the merchants.

The President's Office

Nowadays, the Arabic Room is used for classical music concerts. It has wonderful acoustics and attending a music performance here gives you the much needed time to take in all the details of this gorgeous room.

Detail from the Arabic Room

The rooms of the palace are decorated from top to bottom. And most of them have the 'wow' effect. But none of them will leave you mouth opened as much as the Arabic Room, I have to admit it. I was in complete awe the moment we stepped in this room and I felt like I was just beamed up to a different dimension.

Ceiling of the President's Office

Besides from visiting the Stock Exchange Palace, you can also go for a wine tasting and grab a bite in the palace's restaurant.

The Noble Staircase

The Hall of Nations is a wonderful 19 meters high space with an incredible glass and steel dome that lets natural light pass trough. It is decorated with the coats of arms of the countries Portugal had the closest friendship and trading relations and I could almost hear the music and start dancing, as this is a perfect setting for a fancy ball.

Hall of Nations

Though on the outside it doesn't promise the moon, Porto's Stock Exchange Palace is well worth a visit on the inside. After finishing our visit, we were drunk with the beauty of this place and we definitely think this is one of the must see places in Porto.

The Stock Exchange Palace

We want to give a huge thanks to the Stock Exchange Palace of Porto and its staff for the private tour, their kindness and for letting us take photos of this magnificent gem.

Hotel Infante Sagres, Porto. Luxury and Romance

2012-03-27T11:07:00.000+02:00

When we visited Porto, at the beginning of March, we stayed in one of the most luxurious 5 star boutique hotels the city has to offer - Hotel Infante Sagres, part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Location

Located in the very heart of Porto, in walking distance from the best dining and historical places, Infante Sagres is a oasis of peace and quiet, the ideal place to rest after exploring the hills of the magical Portuguese city.

The room

I've always found the combination of red, black and white as super classy. Therefore I was instantly trilled when I saw that our room was decorated in precisely these colors. One other feature of the room was its symmetry. Though this might not be the most clever idea to go after when you decorate a room, as it is very easy to mess up with the lines and stuff, I must admit that the staff at Infante Sagres is pretty good at keeping everything in order.

Our room, with the most comfy bed in the world

Though the hotel was renovated only a few years ago, some things are better left unchanged

Hotel Infante Sagres has the most comfortable beds we've ever slept in. Period.

I love a good bed, and who doesn't? But if you ask my husband, he can tell you just how important my sleep is for me, and how if I don't get a good night's sleep I can be grumpy all day long. When I travel, I usually am so tired that I fall asleep instantaneously no matter what, but that doesn't mean I love hotel beds. Well, I loved this hotel bed so much, I was only sorry it didn't fit in my luggage :)

The breakfast

Each morning we had a superb buffet breakfast in the hotel's lavishly decorated 'Boca do Lobo' restaurant. I was repeatedly overjoyed to find smoked salmon between the goodies and some unique original paintings on the walls.

'Boca do Lobo' restaurant where we had breakfast each morning

Though during the hot summer months you can have breakfast on the nearby terrace

Hotel Infante Sagres opened back in the 50s. It went under a major renovation about 3 years ago, but it kept part of the beautiful decorations.

The chandelier in the lobby was out of this world

And the stained glass windows of the staircase too

The lobby

Besides the comfy bed, my other favorite area of the hotel was the lobby.

Every times I passed through I gasped in amazement. The old Neo-Barroque style, the out of this world chandelier and the modern pieces of furniture are in the utmost harmony here. The fresh cut flowers, the old style elevators, and the piano where even the guests can play, are details that, no, they didn't make us feel like home, because that would be an understatement, but in a palace.

There was a fire in the fireplace every night

And then, one night, as we were coming back from our fancy dinner at DOP Restaurant, the unexpected happened.

There was a fire in the fireplace!

I immediately cuddled in one of the chairs next to the chimney and we just sat there holding hands and talking for hours. That night, and the night after... It was simply too marvelous. We've been married for almost 7 years now, but we always enjoy a romantic atmosphere. And the soft music, the fire, and the dim light were all a perfect match.

One night one of the guests was playing the piano. The portraits on the wall are those of the hotel's founder and his wife

The bar

Detail from the conference room

One of the the suites. Dalai Lama himself slept here when he visited Porto.

Detail from one of the suites

Ceiling detail

The gift shop

Our Infante Sagres hotel stay was sponsored. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary services did not influence us in writing this review. All opinions expressed in this hotel review are our own.

A Photo Essay Of This Year's Best Fallas

2012-03-23T10:07:00.000+01:00

Las Fallas is the biggest festival celebrated in the city of Valencia, Spain and it is held every year between the 1st and the 19th of March. It is a crazy and noisy, but family friendly festival. We literally took thousands of photos during this year's Las Fallas.

This is a photo essay of our favorite fallas this year. The fallas are papier-mache dolls with a wood structure. They can be anything from 3 meters high to 4 story high. They are on display throughout Valencia for a few days and dramatically burned on the night of 19th of March under the eyes of millions of tourists and locals.

This pretty face is a detail of the falla that got the second prize

The winning falla of 2012. It was huge! See how small the people around it are

To grasp a sense of how big these papier mache statues are, look at the men in the book

Over 700 fallas are erected in Valencia each year. Half of them are no more than 3 meters high and they are built for the children

The fallas are usually humorous and satirical and criticize personalities and behaviors

There are many prize categories and no falla is left without a prize

This was a gorgeous falla on the theme of Mother Africa. We saw it burning on the night of the 19th of March

Las Fallas are a Valencian traditional celebration in praise of Saint Joseph, the patron saint of the carpenters

Some fallas are a few stories high. They are the ones competing in the special category

These papier mache dolls have a wood structure

Every falla tells a story. You really need to be aware of the major events of the past year to grasp their message

But sometimes the fallas are just the embodiment of an idiom

Falla in front of the Town Hall. It does not participate in any contest

My husband loved this stylish French lady. Luckily they've burned it and once again I can sleep without worries ;)

Only 2 small puppets are saved from the fire every year and they are kept in the Fallero Museum next to
the City of Arts and Sciences. The museum can be visited year round and it hosts fallas from the last 80 years

This was may favorite falla this year. Unfortunately of won only the 6th prize

This girl is part of the above falla. She was gorgeous

The fat guy represent the US and the turkey in his hand is Europe. It doesn't look good!

Ultrasound showing baby with iPod. Are we a doomed species?

I'm a crazy cat lady and I always like to spot cats in fallas

No matter how big a falla, it will burn in less than 30 minutes. It is very important for the fallas to be built right and collapse within themselves, not fall on the
surrounding buildings and the people watching them burn

Artists work year round to build these amazing puppets

The most expensive falla ever was built in 2009 and cost almost 1 million euro

Let the fire purify it all. The heat can be unbearable if you are too close to the fire

Millions of euro are just being burned

This was the second falla we saw burning this year. It's not easy to see more than one as they are burned more or less at the same time.
Just as this falla caught fire, a nasty wind started, and rain followed

The firemen have to be next to each burning falla to prevent buildings from catching fire. They get help from other fireman teams from outside Valencia.
On the night of the 19th of March, the protagonist is the fire, but the heroes are the firemen.

Hundreds Of Kids Wear Traditional Costumes During Las Fallas

2012-03-20T22:46:00.000+01:00

Las Fallas is a family friendly festival. To understand this it's enough to watch the hundreds, if not thousands of locals marching the streets of Valencia on the 16th of March, on their way to the City Hall where each group would receive a prize. From the oldest to the youngest, they are all dressed up in traditional and often expensive costumes. The very little ones don’t really care about the etiquette, but the slightly older kids are clearly proud of wearing these clothes.

If any girl's dream is being a princess, in Valencia being a fallera is as close to making this dream a reality as it can get. There aren't that many occasions during the year to get these beautiful clothes out of the closet and I am always pleasantly surprised when 5 years old girls smile at my camera, without anybody telling them to do so, in a gesture of self consciousness. They already are the queens of the festival!

I love this photo! Three girls from three different continents

I love this complex hairstyle. And though some might be tempted to say it is Princess Leia inspired,
I can assure you it is the other way around

There's no need to be Valencian born to be a fallera

I don't think my mother would have let me sit on the bare pavement dressed like that

When your father is a fallero, you have pretty good chances to end up a fallero too

It was really noisy around her, bands were playing loud music and people were laughing and having fun,
but she was above all...

Las Fallas Street Food. The Biggest Party In Valencia Is Delicious

2012-03-18T12:48:00.000+01:00

Churros filled with cream

As we live in Valencia, we hit the streets for Las Fallas once again this year. Las Fallas festival (celebrated from the 1st to the 19th of March each year) is the city's biggest festival and it is known world wide.

Like any other festival, Las Fallas has its share of food stalls and markets. Of course, heavy drinking is an important part of Las Fallas fun, and there are plenty of stalls and bars all over the city that sell mojitos, caipirinhas and beer at over the top prices. Some call this the Mother of All Parties, and after we've just witnessed last night, we can't argue with that.

There's a lot of energy on the streets of Valencia during these days, people dancing and singing and throwing firecrackers till very late at night. Other people go to see the fallas, the light displays, the mascletas and the flower offering. There's something to do for everyone. And despite all the drinking and getting drunk thing, Las Fallas is a festival very much for the children too.

A peculiar detail however is that some of these yummy foods (like the buñuelos and the cream filled churros) can only be bought during Las Fallas. Once the festival finishes, all the street stalls disappear and with them, the mouth watering delicacies.

Arabic sweets

Churros

Buñuelos. The best ones are made with pumpkin

Churros filled with cream

Arabic sweets

Special bread with raisins

Goat cheese

Apples covered in chocolate

Churros

Cream filled churros

Churros

Pastries

Baked pumpkin

Horchata Valenciana - a sweet and milky drink made from tiger nuts

Jelly sweets

I have no idea what these were, but they looked pretty delicious

Sweets

Buñuelos dipped in hot chocolate

Spring At The Botanical Garden From Dublin

2012-03-16T11:42:00.000+01:00

We've only been to Dublin once - in spring. But I can't imagine a better timing, as the whole city was in bloom and I'm a sucker for pretty flowers.

I have to admit that the parks of Dublin totally took me by surprise. I new Ireland was green, but I never expected the public parks to be so well cared for and colorful. Back then, we were still living on the arid Costa Blanca, and all I can say is that the change was shocking.

On one of the mornings, our friends from Dublin took us to the Botanical Garden. Right from the entrance I was smitten and the feeling persisted the whole time we walked through the gardens. I don't know if you've ever experienced that complete disorientation when in a new place you like it so much that you don't know where to look first. I really hope you did, because it's a marvelous experience.

I've never seen so many tulips together and in such incredible variety in my entire life. And the green house was full of orchids in bloom too. So many colors, so many shapes and sizes... I was blown away. Truth is, these flowers are one of the reasons I'm so fond of Dublin to this day.

I wish the Botanical Garden from Valencia were so green. While it offers sanctuary to many cats and that makes it one of my favorite Botanical Gardens ever, the Mediterranean climate will never ever allow it be so full of flowers in bloom neither in spring nor in any other season.

But while cats are lacking from the Botanical Garden from Dublin, squirrels are its proud inhabitants. And, boy, I love squirrels too! Actually my very first post on this blog was about the little furry fellows. I just think they are super extra 'Ice Age' cute because they are so playful, silly and funny while they think they are going serious stuff, like gathering nuts.

OK, now I seriously induced myself in a state of nostalgia and the urge to visit Dublin again is taking over my judgement. But then again, there are so many flights to Ireland from Valencia, that I shall definitely head back soon.

Have you been to Dublin? What's you favorite time of the year to visit Ireland?

Dinning At Rui Paula's DOP Restaurant. Author Cuisine In Porto

2012-03-15T14:23:00.000+01:00

Some of the wonderful dishes that composed our menu

On our second evening in Porto we had a lovely dinner at DOP Restaurant. Situated in a historic building in the very World Heritage Area of Porto, this restaurant might have a short name, but it definitely features great author cuisine.

Opened in 2010, DOP is the brain child of chef Rui Paula, born in Porto and inspired by the dished his maternal grandmother used to cook in the Douro Region. I wonder why the granny's dishes are always the best in the world?

The moment we entered the restaurant, we were greeted by friendly staff. They took our coats, they showed us to our table and from there on we were spoiled like royalties. We've never been to a restaurant with more attentive, prompt, and considerate service. They explained us each dish as it was served with a smile on the face (everybody spoke perfect English, by the way), and they truly elevated the act of food serving to a state of art. DOP Restaurant really stands out from the crowd when it comes to this and dinning here was a unique experience.

DOP Restaurant's cellar, with hundreds of wines from the Douro Region and beyound

Chef Rui Paula

The food? The food was beyond delicious, blending traditional recipes from the region with a modern twist and lots of creativity. The menu included 7 courses and 3 different types of wine out of the hundreds they have in their cellar, all served with the utmost attention and friendliness in the most perfect of the displays. There was nothing random about the menu. Everything looked like a piece of art.

Between the highlights of the menu was the 'chestnut cream soup with pork “secretos” and pineapple' - the most divine soup we've ever tasted. Up till now I always thought my mother's chicken soup was the best soup in the world. Well, not anymore. Sorry mom!

However, the most surprising of all the wonderful dishes we tasted at DOP was... the explosion. It is very difficult for me to put into words the sensations it awoke in my mouth this little raspberry flavored ball. We had it just before the dessert, to clean the palate, and the moment I stuck my teeth in it, it exploded, releasing a syrup with tiny crispy crumbs that still made noises in my mouth one minute later. We didn't even know something like this existed.

DOP Restaurant, Porto

The atmosphere was wonderful too. Soft, romantic music, orchids on each table, impeccable design. The chef, Rui Paula, passed by each table twice during our dinner to say a few words and check if all guests were happy. Everything was perfect, I can tell you.

DOP will stay etched in our memory as a special restaurant worth going back to. And apparently so it does for other people too. At the table just next to us were two gentleman, one from Brazil and the other one from the US and we started chatting just as they also had the 'explosion', because you see, this is one marvelous experience you want to talk about. They confessed us that it was their second time in Porto and also their second time at chef Rui Paula's DOP. They loved it so much the first time that they had to come back. We also got the same reaction when we asked for the restaurant's directions at our Porto hotel's reception. They said 'it's a very nice restaurant. You will definitely have a great time'. And so we did!

We received two superb complimentary menus from Rui Paula's DOP Restaurant. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary items/services received will never influence the content, topics, or posts in this blog.

Making Friends On The Road. A Wine Tasting With A Twist

2012-03-11T21:54:00.000+01:00

Just after we finished our boat trip up and down the Douro River, our ever surprising and resourceful guide, Luis from EcoTours Portugal asked us if we wanted to go for a wine tasting before saying goodbye to him. Hell yeah! He made some phone calls and we climbed some hills in Vila Nova de Gaia, the city just across the river from Porto, and minutes later we were in the lobby of Croft winery.

This was our almost first wine tasting ever, and I say 'almost' because I have some fuzzy memories about some wine cellars in Cartagena, Spain a few years back.

First thing we saw when entering the Croft winery was this super comfy and amazingly decorated area with a real fire burning in the fireplace and orchids on the table. We took a short guided tour through the cellar and the guide explained us a few things about how they make the famous Port wine from the vineyards of the nearby Douro Valley.

However, my favorite detail was that they use two different methods to squash the grapes, one mechanical, the other one with the bare feet. The best? The one with the bare feet. I always wanted to do this! Oh, well, maybe some day... My grandparents were from a wine region and they used to make wine at home. Never used their feet though. But as a kid, I was squashing grapes in my hands and that felt so good. And Gosh, I would have loved to get my feet into those grapes, but they never let me do it...

After the guided tour we were graciously invited to taste some of their wine. Many wineries in Gaia offer a FREE wine tasting if you bother to visit them and Croft was no exception. This time we sat in the stunning lobby on beautiful chairs and at a beautiful table with a barrel design. We were served one red and one white wine tasting. My husband likes red better, I prefer the white one. And now I have to say it loud and clear. THIS WAS THE MOST DIVINE WHITE WINE I'VE EVER TASTED IN MY ENTIRE LIFE.

Part of our group at the winery there were two 22 years old girls from South Korea and when we were to sit down and taste the wine, they invited us to sit with them at the table. And so it is how we found out their incredible story and mission. They are on a 6 months penniless tour of Europe, couchsurfing and hitchhiking from one place to another. I mean, how amazing is that?

We told them we were living in Valencia, they told us they were headed for Valencia to see the Las Fallas Festival. They told us they couldn't find anybody to offer them a couch during Las Fallas, we told them we had two spare beds for them and that they were welcome to stay with us. Everything was so incredibly spontaneous and their happiness was contagious. Then we talked a bit more about their travels and about our travels... One of them is the first time outside South Korea. Imagine your first trip outside you country being a 6 months escape through Europe! These girls are amazing, but we think we made a pretty good impression too ;)

Dear Somi and Yeji, we are really looking forward to share this year's Las Fallas with you!

Boat With a View. Going On A Cruise On The Douro River

2012-03-09T22:15:00.000+01:00

We have to admit that Porto totally took us by surprise. We never expected it to be such a charming city. Even before finishing our walking tour we were completely smitten. But strolling up and down the streets of Porto is no easy task for the unfit traveler, and after a whole morning exploring the city by foot, we were really looking forward to embark on a Douro River cruise.

Porto has an amazingly colorful architecture and there's no doubt one can appreciate it from land. But if you are looking for some amazing views of the city, you really need to go on a boat ride.

We just loved the fact that the laundry was hanging in the sun. In most European cities this is prohibited; but not in Porto. Here the locals are not ashamed of exposing their towels to the passerby and the authorities don't seem to mind either.

The way this city was built is simply amazing. Some of the houses are literally carved in stone. Others seem to defy gravity, while clinging to the hills with might and main.

During our river cruise we discovered parts of Porto way out of the tourist path. While the Ribeira has crowded colorful houses, once you pass the Dom Luis Bridge, the architecture changes slightly and you can actually see the bare rock this city was built on and the feeling you get is that of looking under the skirts of a beautiful woman.

Probably the most mind blowing thing we found on the Douro River were the boats. I couldn't stop myself from taking pictures of them. They are so cute! The bigger ones are used for cruises, but the small ones are there as mere decoration.

Of course, one of the main attractions while taking the river cruise in Porto are the six bridges. We don't know much about bridges architecture, therefore, all we can tell is that they are very tall, connecting the highest parts of Porto with the highest parts of Gaia. Luis, our guide from EcoTours Portugal explained us this was for practical reasons.

Porto is the only city in Europe to have exactly six bridges. Except, of course, Villa Nova de Gaia that shares the bridges with Porto. One of the wrought iron bridges was design by Gustave Eiffel, but unfortunately it is not in use today anymore. The one above, though looks similar in design and could foul many people, was design by a former partner of Eiffel.

We thoroughly enjoyed our river cruise. We had some lovely weather and feeling the wind gently caressing our skin was extremely pleasant. Luis was with us all the time, pointing us buildings from both cities as we were passing by, while explaining us what they were. The bridges cruise took about one hour, just enough time for the boat to take us all the way from one side of Porto to the other side where the Atlantic Ocean patiently awaited us.

We want to give a huge thank you to Luis and EcoTours Portugal for organizing such a lovely morning for us. We truly grasped a better understanding of Porto with your help.

We received this complimentary boat ride from EcoTours Portugal. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary items/services received will never influence the content, topics, or posts in this blog.

A Walk to Remember. Discovering Porto's Best Kept Secrets

2012-03-08T14:17:00.000+01:00

Old Porto tram car still in use

Every city has its secret corners that it reveals slowly, over time, to the patient traveler, and Porto is no exception. Therefore we were thrilled when the guys from EcoTours Portugal invited us for a walking tour to discover Porto's best kept secrets.

Our guide, Luis, picks us up at the established hour from Hotel Infante Sagres where we are hosted, and before we know it, we are strolling on the streets of Porto exploring hidden corners we wouldn't have otherwise discovered by ourselves.

Beautiful blue tiled church

Porto, the very city that put the "port" in Portugal, is a charming destination. One could spend days on end walking the little cobbled streets. But we don't have this luxury, and Luis, offers us a welcomed shortcut towards better understanding the city. We rely on his local knowledge and he presents us the most stunning views over the city, the best coffee shops, and he gets us inside official buildings otherwise we wouldn't have probably set foot in.

We feel like VIPs as we have Luis all for ourselves. We have his undivided attention and he is eager to answer any questions we have about Porto, while he recommends us the best restaurants and museums in town.

Art Nouveau building and girl statue (after Luis showed her to us we started seeing her everywhere,
in cafeterias, restaurants, etc)

Luis has a loud and healthy laugh; the same we hear all over Porto. When he laughs, he does so with his whole body, and you can tell he knows how to enjoy life. His English is flawless and he goes up and down the hills of Porto without breaking a sweat. My husband and I try to keep up with him and we are happy we brought comfortable shoes. Luis waits patiently while we take tons of photos and marvel at the lovely tiles whole building are covered in. We love the colorful atmosphere and the quantity of wrought iron Porto has, and we call it a city with a strong personality.

Tiled houses with wrought iron balconies

Luis talks about his home city in a light and friendly manner. He avoids overwhelming us with dates and complicated names we would forget in less than 5 minutes anyways. He wants us to understand the city as it is today, but always providing the necessary background whenever required, and we are really grateful for the way he does his job, because we are here to enjoy the city, not for a history lesson.

Magnolias and camellias are in bloom all over Porto this time of the year

The best part of our Porto tour however, is that Luis really manages to open doors for us. We get to see some stunning views of the Douro River and Gaia, Porto's sister town, from one of the rooms of Hotel da Bolsa. He talks for us so we can take photos inside the famous Lello Bookshop and he arranges for a photo shooting session inside the Stock Exchange Palace.

Stunning views of the Cathedral from the old Jewish quarter and hanging laundry

Luis also takes us for a walk through the Jewish quarter, built inside the old city walls, and from here we can enjoy some amazing views of the cathedral and meet a lady doing the laundry at the communal fonts. That, and the hanging laundry all over the historic center of Porto makes us feel like we've just stepped back in time for a moment. But the city has modern infrastructure, and glimpsing the past and the present at the same time is magical.

Please notice the seagull on the chimney. They are everywhere!

We learn a lot about Porto during our second morning in the city. We discover its pulse and its fascinating people and architecture. As if the Atlantic Ocean didn't do the trick the previous day, now we are officially in love with Porto. Luis really tailored a fantastic walking tour for us. And so, after over four hours of discovering the streets of Porto, our feet are tired, and a cruise on the Douro River sounds like a God sent idea as the sun is up and the air is warm.

Cat enjoying the sun and the views of the Douro River from the Jewish quarter

We received this complimentary walking tour from EcoTours Portugal. However, the receipt and acceptance of complimentary items/services received will never influence the content, topics, or posts in this blog.

Our Open Letter to the Atlantic Ocean

2012-03-05T19:15:00.000+01:00

Dear Atlantic Ocean,

You are even more beautiful in March than you were in December when we first met you. We like you for the dramatic dance you perform without a flow. And we love you for the way you chase us every time we try to steal your colorful pebbles and intriguing shells. And mind you, this is from somebody who's been living by the sea for the last ten years, but then again, the Mediterranean is not such a drama queen as you are.

So it should come as no surprise that shortly after we arrived at our Porto hotel and the morning rain stopped, we jumped on the first bus to meet you again. And, boy, you were fabulous. Therefore, we spend our whole first day in Porto with you, all the way through the sunset.

We had tons of fun with your seagulls. They are high end entertainment. And we enjoyed having drinks and food with ocean views on the stunning Porto promenade that graciously but ironicaly mixes your natural ocean smells with the fried fish aromas from the restaurants along the way.

We like you lots and we will surely visit you again!

Walking Around the Fabulous Blenheim Palace & Gardens

2012-02-29T12:42:00.001+01:00

Blenheim Palace is one of the few princely residences that made it the UNESCO World Heritage list. Even so, probably the most outstanding detail about it is that it is the birthplace of Winston Churchill, Britain’s Prime Ministry during the second world war.

Blenheim Palace celebrates the beginnings of the English Romantic movement and the victory of the British troops over the French in the War of Spanish Succession. It was then presented as a gift by the English people to John Churchill, first Duke of Marlborough in recognition for his victory in 1704 at Blenheim and it remained within the family ever since. Nowadays Blenheim Palace is used as a private residence, therefore, out of the 187 lavishly decorated rooms it has, only a few can be visited and no photos are allowed inside.

But the gardens are a totally different matter. Blenheim Palace is set within 2000 acres of beautiful parkland that encompasses the second largest maze in the world and a butterfly house. One can walk for hours on end through these gardens, picnic, rest, relax, meditate, enjoy the sun, etc.

I just love the passion and the energy the English people invest in creating perfect landscapes. Maybe always a bit afraid of adding too many details, the gardens are so well cared for and everything looks so in place that I can't help but wonder.

The palace is situated a short trip from Oxford, in the much celebrated English countryside, and is definitely a must visit.

Quite a few movies were filmed here too, 'Young Victoria', 'Gulliver's travels', and 'Harry Potter' being just some of the most recent and famous ones.

Somehow I believe Blenheim Gardens are for England what the Villandry Gardens are for France...

The rose garden was one of my favorites, partly because the roses were the only flowers in bloom. I would love to visit Blenheim Palace again in spring sometime, when the daffodils are in bloom...

I have the feeling that the place is more popular with the locals than with the tourists from abroad though. When we visited in mid July the terrace overlooking the gardens was packed with British people. The gardens weren't that packed, but then again, they are huge, so it's impossible to get crowded. We had to cue for photos of the waterfalls though.

My husband and I thoroughly enjoyed our long and lazy walk by the river. It was so romantic and everything was so green, and we love green, green is good!

The old Cedar of Lebannon trees looked so alien! We loved them, and so apparently did the creators of 'Harry Potter', because they used one of these trees with a particularly 'O' shaped hole in the trunk in the movie.

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